You will certainly have noticed that the double-breasted suit, aka the DB suit has returned to men’s fashion magazines. This classic suit become ‘hype’ has experienced many transformations in half a century. But is it always a reference in terms of masculine elegance today?
The DB suit has its glory days in the mid-1940s; it becomes the privilege of manly and stylish man of post WWII. Many figures of the 7th Art wore it brilliantly; we remember Cary Grant or Gary Cooper but also Jean-Paul Belmondo and Alain Delon in « Borsalino » by Jacques Deray in 1970. Increasingly associated with the business industry, it becomes the illustration of social status, « Mad Men » the TV series is a perfect example, and somehow we could think that it has even contributed to re-stage this classic suit.
But since « Fashion is the imitation of who wants to be distinguished by one who does not want to be distinguished, it changes automatically »-Paul Valéry. Considered as dusty and old fashion by the trend setters, the double-breasted suit leaves rapidly the business world to be replaced by the straight jacket suit. Its comeback is the result of big transformations to stick to the man of today, a Metrosexual, young -looking man, skinny, effeminate and fragile.
The jacket is shortened and fitted cut to adapt the upper body of the man of 2014. The shoulder pads that used to give a boxy square-cut appearance to the jacket and authority and respectability to men are removed. The pants also are shortened and slimmed cut. Thus modernized, the double-breasted suit becomes a dandys’must but still remains difficult to wear for most men. Hence for those misguided it can be a real visual disaster for the new cut supposed to have a skinny body.
Thierry Henry in the US GQ mag of January 2014 experienced it. Everybody can tell that the suit he wears is too tight, too small, and too short for him, he looks ridiculous however blessed this ex French Soccer Star is for his body. Remember that all fashion trends are not to be followed but the good side of this is that ridicule never killed anyone.
5 tips to wear the double-breasted suit:
- Tailor-Made Vs. Ready-to-Wear
The double-breasted suit needs to be tailored-made, adjusted and fitted to each client.
- Noble & Light materials and fabrics
Prefer light materials & fabrics such as wool or wool-silk blends. Thick materials are likely to weigh down the style.
- The Appropriate Event
The double-breasted suit is inappropriate for most professional situations. Wearing it for no particular occasion will make you look grotesque, having bad taste or having fancy snobbery. The DB suit is perfect for weddings, important ceremonies, awards ceremonies, cocktails…
- Total Look
Definitely Yes! You can adopt the Total Look, provided that you avoid large tiles and bright colors. Do wear a tie and a chest pocket with; this DB suit will not suffer relaxed style. Be sophisticated and elegant, women will fall under your spell and men will be jealous.
- Be Yourself.
Do not wear the double-breasted suit if you feel uncomfortable and if you have never worn a suit before.